An extreme skiing champion's guide to the best slopes in New England
Chris Davenport is a born New Englander who learned his craft on the region's best slopes. Here are his favourite places to ski in the North-East US, from Jay Peak to Stowe.
With its frigid winters, jagged peaks and less consistent snowfall, the US East Coast is frequently outshone by the West Coast as a ski destination. After all, the Rocky Mountains feature the tallest mountains peaks, the deepest powder and the gnarliest terrain.
But the East Coast's rugged topography and icy conditions are precisely why many New England locals proudly display "Ski the East!" bumper stickers on their vehicles. These challenging conditions have given rise to a number of excellent ski towns and produced some of the most decorated skiers of all time, including Mikaela Shiffrin, Bode Miller and extreme skiing champ Chris Davenport.
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Chris Davenport is a two-time extreme skiing world champion and one of the most accomplished big mountain skiers of all time. He is one of only a few people who have skied down the Lhotse Face of Mount Everest. Davenport has guided ski trips all over the world, is a Norrøna brand ambassador and has published two books on ski mountaineering. In 2014, he was inducted into the US Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame.
Though Davenport made history by skiing all 54 of Colorado’s 14,000ft peaks in the span of one year and has lived in Aspen for decades, the daredevil actually cut his teeth in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, where he grew up. Even today, Davenport has fond memories of the landscape that shaped him; particularly of the cabin his grandfather built in the town of North Conway in the 1940s, where generations of Davenports have learned to ski.
Davenport had just stepped off a helicopter while guiding a skiing trip in Northern Canada when we caught up with him to ask for his New England skiing tips.
"I've always believed that it's not the size of the mountains or the quality of the snow that makes the skier, it's how much access you have," Davenport tells the BBC. "New England skiing is so accessible. You can find cool, affordable ski towns, incredible ski clubs and great coaches. New England is a hotbed of cultivating passionate skiers."
Here are Davenport’s top recommendations for skiing the east.
1. Best introduction to the region: North Conway, New Hampshire
When it comes to accessible adventure, Davenport's childhood stomping grounds of North Conway in the White Mountains is where it's at.
This village of just more than 2,000 people is ringed by 800,000 acres of national forest, including Mount Washington, the tallest mountain in New England, making it an ideal jumping-off point for skiing.
Tip:
Davenport is a ski history aficionado, so he urges visitors to hit the area's ski museums. The base of Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire features the New England Ski Museum, while Stowe is home to the Vermont Ski and Snow Museum.
"The history of skiing and snowboarding is so interesting, and so many of the early pioneers in the sport came from New England," says Davenport. "I love to encourage people to have a historical context of where this sport used to be, where it came from, and where it is now. So visiting these ski museums is really eye opening. You learn a lot and it makes you a more fluent skier."
"You can go ski Cranmore and then jump over to Attitash and maybe go up to Wildcat or Black Mountain," says Davenport, referencing the ski areas that dot the region. "And if you are more proficient and want to explore the backcountry, you can head to Tuckerman Ravine" – a glacial cirque carved into Mount Washington known for its steep descents and propensity for avalanches.
North Conway is a four-season destination, whether it's for skiing in the winter, biking in the spring, hiking in the summer or leaf peeping in the autumn. As such, it has the amenities to support the constant influx of visitors. Moat Mountain Brewing Company is a popular spot for an après-ski beer and burger; Zeb’s General Store is so well stocked and nostalgic it can have a line down the block during peak summer; and White Birch Books is the perfect place to pick up some local adventure inspo for when you are cosying up by the fire.
Website: https://cranmore.com/
Address: 239 Skimobile Rd, North Conway, NH 03860
Phone: 1-800-SUN-N-SKI
Instagram: @cranmoremountain
2. Best for families: Stowe, Vermont
Nestled at the base of Mount Mansfield – the tallest mountain in Vermont – is the quaint town of Stowe. Davenport has a personal connection; his wife is from the area, and her mother was a ski instructor at Stowe Mountain Resort. "It’s a super authentic and historic ski town with a welcoming vibe and incredible summer recreation," he says.
His own ties aside, the skiing at Stowe is top notch, offering runs for beginners and experts alike – especially those with children. The resort features more challenging trails and 2,360ft of vertical drop on Mount Mansfield, and family-friendly runs on Spruce Peak. There is a fun gondola that connects the two mountains, and at the base of Spruce Peak is Spruce Peak Village, which has a skating rink, shops and restaurants.
Beyond the resort, the town of Stowe has plenty to offer for adults and children. Davenport is a fan of Piecasso, a skier-friendly pizza joint. And for premier New England brewery destinations, it doesn’t get much better than The Alchemist, a local institution that makes one of the most in-demand IPAs in a region known for them. "That’s become a kind of religion up there," says Davenport. That and skiing, of course.
Website: https://www.stowe.com/
Address: 5781 Mountain Rd, Stowe, VT 05672
Phone: +1 (802) 253-3000
Instagram: @stowemt
3. Best powder: Jay Peak
For those looking to sample the deepest East Coast powder, it doesn’t get any better than Jay Peak Resort. Just south of the Canadian border in Jay, Vermont, the snow comes early and often to this part of the Green Mountains. Jay Peak averages 350in of snow a year, which is the highest total in New England.
"Jay has a more adventurous, off-piste spirit," says Davenport. "It has a pretty core local skier community than some of the bigger industrial mountains."
At four hours from Boston, getting there is a hike, but that doesn’t stop people from chasing the pow. "I know families in Massachusetts that drive to Jay every weekend because it’s so awesome, but it’s a commitment," says Davenport. The copious snow and the 2,153ft of vertical drop make it well worth the pilgrimage.
Website: https://jaypeakresort.com/
Address: 830 Jay Peak Rd, Jay, VT, 05859
Phone: +1 (802) 988-2611
Instagram: @jaypeakresort
4. Best après-ski spot: Red Parka Pub
North of North Conway in Glen, New Hampshire, is Davenport’s favourite spot for hanging out after a big day in the mountains: the Red Parka Steakhouse and Pub. "It’s one of the most famous ski bars in the Mount Washington Valley," says Davenport.
"The Parka", as it is known to locals, has been family-owned for 53 years. "Our parents would pick us up at Attitash and on the way home we'd stop at the Parka and they would get beers and we would have wings," Davenport recalls. "That was pretty foundational. There were always ski movies playing on the screen. It just has a really cool ski town vibe." The bar's interior is peppered with ski paraphernalia and there is a patio for summertime dining. After a cold day on the slopes, the famous French onion soup is a definite crowd pleaser.
Website: http://www.redparkapub.com/
Address: 3 Station St, Glen, NH 03838
Phone: +1 (603) 383-4344
Instagram: @theredparkapub
5. Best dual-purpose destination: Burke, Vermont
In Vermont's Northeast Kingdom – a 2,000-sq-mile area comprising three counties and ample lakes and mountains – sits the town of Burke and Burke Mountain Ski Resort. "Burke’s fantastic," raves Davenport. "What a transformation from a sleepy little ski area to this unbelievable destination."
The resort still maintains a homely feel. What it lacks in size it more than makes up for with its reliably enjoyable and challenging runs, sparse crowds and fantastic views, including the distant Willoughby Gap. a glacier-carved notch between Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor.
It is also the home of the Kingdom Trails, one of the premier mountain biking destinations in the world. This makes it a great spot to visit in the summer, or for taking a break from skiing and renting a fat tyre bike in winter. Davenport’s sister Ashley, herself an alum of the US Ski Team, taught at nearby Burke Mountain Academy for a decade (a boarding school for ski racers that has sent 37 alums to the Olympics, including Mikaela Shiffrin), and like many locals, her property borders the extensive trail network, meaning she can get out on a world-class ride from her backyard. For post-ride refreshments it’s hard to beat The Hub Trailside Beer Garden, an idyllic spot on Darling Hill connected to the Village Sport Shop, where you can rent bikes and hit the trails.
Website: https://skiburke.com/
Address: 223 Sherburne Lodge Rd, East Burke, VT 05832
Phone: +1 (802) 626-7300
Instagram: @burkemountainofficial
6. Best region for gnarly terrain: The 93 Corridor
Route 93, a highway which travels from Boston directly into the heart of the White Mountains, cuts through an inordinate amount of steep runs and thrilling terrain. "I like the variety of being able to go to Loon Mountain one day, Waterville Valley the next and then Cannon Mountain," says Davenport. "Growing up, Cannon always felt big and wild and up in the alpine. It has a tram to the top and tight trees."
The Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway opened in 1938, and still offers year-round rides to the 4,080ft summit, making it the highest ski area in New Hampshire. Another bonus of travelling Route 93 is the town of Littleton, New Hampshire. Not only does it feature Lahout’s, the US oldest ski shop, it has Schilling Beer Co, a riverside destination for delicious pints and exquisite charcuterie boards; and Chutters candy store, home of the world’s longest candy counter.
What's Davenport's ideal rest day in New England? "You shouldn't take a rest day," he says "New England is known for the nature, the mountains, the rivers, the trails, the history. Just keep skiing, because that's why you're there in the first place."
Website: https://www.cannonmt.com/
Address: 2650 Profile Rd, Franconia, NH 03580
Phone: +1 (603) 823-8800
Instagram: @cannonmountain
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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