A dancehall superstar's guide to Jamaica

From hiking Dunn's River Falls to having bun and cheese, here are international pop artist Shenseea's picks for how to experience the best of her home nation.

Though Jamaica is known as a tropical retreat, it's also a country of contrasts, where the island's serene beaches and lush Blue Mountains coexist with bustling urban streets. Kingston, the island's capital, is buzzing with energy and offers travellers new hotels, swanky lounges and museums dedicated to Jamaica's art and culture. 

We spoke to Shenseea, the Kingston-born international pop artist who broke out in 2017 with the cheeky viral dancehall hit Loodi, to get her advice on how to experience the city where she grew up and the scenic countryside beyond. 

"I was born in Kingston, but I also love being in nature, surrounded by greenery," she says. “My grandparents had acres of land in St Elizabeth, where they used to farm and raise cattle. It wasn't noisy like the city, and I sometimes miss the farming and the smell of the country."

Though the singer spends several months of the year touring around the world, she goes back to her hometown as often as six or seven times a year. "It's important to reconnect with your roots," the Grammy-nominated artist says. "Kingston is my home. It's where I grew up, and it's just where my heart is. Nothing can compare to the nonstop energy of Kingston." 

Jamaica's tropical weather makes it an ideal place to spend the last months of the year. In autumn and winter, the island's rainy season has tapered off, leaving blue skies and temperatures that hover around 25C. 

"If you come to Kingston, book an Airbnb or hotel and enjoy the parties and events throughout the week," Shenseea suggests. "You can explore the city and get a feel for the local life." 

Here are some of Shenseea's favourite ways to explore Jamaica.  

Montego Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios are three coastal resort destinations that are perennially popular with visitors, but its capital city of Kingston is what Shenseea calls the "real" Jamaica.

"Kingston is where you'll find the real hustlers," she says. "During the day, people come to Kingston to grind. Then, at night, the nightlife doesn't stop. It's never dull in the city." 

Where other parts of Jamaica offer sun-soaked leisure, Kingston – the island's most populous city as well as its financial centre – is buzzing with restaurants, sleek high-rises and nightclubs that stay open until sunrise. It is also the birthplace of dancehall music, which takes its name from the inner-city dancehalls where boisterous parties are held. A departure from the mellow roots reggae sound, dancehall focuses on the realities of life for urban Jamaicans, often including provocative, unfiltered lyrics. Many of Jamaica's famous dancehall artists, like Sean Paul and Beenie Man, hail from Kingston, and it remains the heartbeat of Jamaica's dynamic music scene.

For a classic Kingston night out, Shenseea heads to Ribbiz Ultra Lounge. 

"Ribbiz Ultra Lounge in Kingston is my favourite place to party, and it's one of Kingston's most famous nightclubs," she says. "The music there is always a vibe; they play everything so all ages can enjoy themselves. Their audience is broad because they're versatile, and I love the versatility. I'm always entertained there, and after a night of partying, the late-night food always hits the spot." Anchored by a sleek bar, the intimate waterfront lounge is the place to be seen after hours. The venue often hosts themed nights with guest DJs.

Kingston is also home to several museums, including the Bob Marley Museum and the National Gallery of Jamaica. The Bob Marley Museum is housed in the reggae legend's former home, where visitors can see his photos and personal record collection, while the National Gallery features a collection that includes artefacts from the island's early Taino Indians as well as paintings and sculptures from contemporary Jamaican artists. Just a few paces away is Kingston's Arts District, comprised of several blocks of vibrant murals.

Website: https://www.ribbiz.com/menu/barbican/

Address: Ardenne Emirates Plaza, 7-9 Ardenne Rd, Kingston, Jamaica

While travellers might be more familiar with Seven Mile Beach in Negril, famous for its coral sands and crystalline waters, Shenseea says Jamaica's best beach is actually Maiden Cay, a 20-minute ferry ride from Kingston.

"Not many people know about Maiden Cay," she says. "You have to take a boat to get there, and the water is as blue as the sky. The beach is very clean and feels like a little island of pure white sand in the middle of the ocean. Some locals like to take boat trips on Sundays and just enjoy the beach for the day."

Maiden Cay is one of the main islets off the shore of Port Royal Cays on the north-eastern region of the reef. Its secluded atmosphere and incredible marine life make it a must visit.

Another natural attraction on Shenseea's list is Dunn's River Falls. Just an hour from Kingston, Dunn's River Falls and Park is one of the most popular attractions on the island for good reason; the falls attract nearly a million visitors every year, and if you're brave, you can climb to the top of the falls with the help of a local guide. 

"Dunn's River Falls is made up of these massive falls that flow into the ocean. It's just one of the most beautiful falls," Shenseea says. "It's a place that everyone can enjoy."

The area is not just for climbing waterfalls. The park also offers a zipline ride over the falls and a splash pad for kids.

Website: https://dunnsriverfallsja.com/

Address: Ocho Rios, Jamaica

Phone: +1 876-974-4767

Jamaica's Blue Mountain Coffee is lauded for its smooth, balanced flavour and sweet, subtle aftertaste. The beans are grown in the elevated Blue Mountains on the eastern coast; a region known for its lush greenery, cool climate and stunning views.

"Jamaica has the best coffee, and the Blue Mountains are one of our best attractions. People come here because it's very refreshing being out in nature," she says. 

To experience the best of the Blue Mountains, Shenseea recommends planning a visit to the Craighton Estate, a coffee farm that has been producing coffee since the late 18th Century. "Coming here allows you to learn about the coffee-making process, and you can also relax and unwind," she says.

The estate offers guided tours of the working coffee farm, where visitors can learn about the coffee-making process from bean to cup. The tours also include a coffee-tasting session of the estate's finest brews.

Address: Craighton Estate, Irish Town, Jamaica

Phone: +1 876-929-8490

What's the first thing Shenseea wants to eat as soon as she lands in Jamaica? Her answer is simple: "KFC". The fried chicken at KFC restaurants has been a Jamaican craze since the American fast food franchise arrived on the island in 1975, earning a loyal fan base among locals and visitors for their superior fried chicken, which many insist tastes exponentially better than KFC in other countries due to the use of local chickens and Jamaican spices.

Besides KFC, Shenseea likes two no-frills restaurants serving Jamaican staples like jerk meat and golden baked patties. "If people want some good, local food, they should go to Scotchies," she says. "They have a lot of delicious jerk food on their menu." 

Scotchies on Montego Bay is a no-frills eatery with wood tables under thatched-roof tiki huts, where the jerked meat is prepared in an open pit, and there's a rustic bar for ordering rum punches. One of Jamaica's most well-known dishes, jerk refers to both the spices and how the meat is cooked. Coated with a blend of spices like thyme, scotch bonnet pepper and garlic, the meat (often chicken, pork or goat) is slow roasted over a fire or grill, giving it a smoky flavour.

"Another place I like is Tastee," says Shenseea. "[It's] a local fast-food restaurant. I love their rice and peas, fried chicken and patties." With more than a dozen locations across Jamaica, Tastee specialises in patties, an inexpensive pastry that's baked golden brown with savoury meat fillings like beef and chicken. Patties can be eaten plain or sandwiched between coco bread, a soft, sweetened bread made with coconut milk.

Shenseea also recommends travellers try two of her favourite snacks while they're in Jamaica: bun and cheese (a slice of cheese sandwiched between a spiced bread roll) – "Bun and cheese for me is top tier!" – or a sugar and spice cake from Sugar and Spice, "if you want something really sweet and smooth. That's my favourite cake in Jamaica." The family-owned bakery has been in business since 1971 and has several locations around Kingston.

Scotchies Address: Coral Gardens, Ironshore, St. Ann Ocho Rios

Phone: +1 876 953 3301

Instagram: @scotchiesjamaica

--

If you liked this story, sign up for The Essential List newsletter – a handpicked selection of features, videos and can't-miss news, delivered to your inbox twice a week. 

For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram.