Melania's hat, shorts in winter and other eye-catching looks

Inauguration day is all about pomp, pageantry - and pictures.

The clothes worn on this world stage - the colour, cut and details - take the spotlight. From Melania's striking hat to Usha's fashion forward overcoat, here's a quick roundup of some of the day's most memorable looks.

According to Lauren Rothman, a celebrity stylist and fashion expert who works with both men and women, Democrats and Republicans, "the headline [of today] is that everyone, from the cabinet to the tech giants, looked "hashtag made for TV".

As she points out: "This is an administration where Donald Trump has said that optics matter," and it felt like everyone understood the brief. There was a high-shine and glossiness to the incoming administration, from the perfectly placed pearls, intentional styling details and perfectly coiffed hair: the kind, according to Rothman, that "doesn't move in the wind."

From the outgoing administration, a quiet – and sometimes not-so-quiet – defiance could be read into the choice of colours, as well as the more subtle details of some of the looks.

From Melania's striking hat to Usha's fashion-forward overcoat, here's a roundup of some of the day's most memorable looks.

What the incoming president chose to wear was never going to stray too far from his norm of navy suits.

According to Rothman, "we're still seeing, you know, a pretty simple suit" but she said the big difference and a "huge signal that is different, is in his tie."

"It's really ultimately a mix of red and blue, which creates a purple effect."

The more muted tie "kind of signals in my world, I don't need to scream. I don't need to project. I have arrived."

Another big point of interest, particularly on Inauguration Day, is where the president gets his suits. Speaking to the BBC ahead of Inauguration Day, Derek Guy, a menswear expert, said: "I think it's important for American presidents to wear American-made clothes when they are taking their oath of office."

At least "40 of the last 45 presidents bought at least some of their suits from Brooks Brothers, the most important menswear clothier in this nation's history," said Guy.

He also cited Obama wearing "a Hart Schaffner Marx suit made in Des Plaines, Illinois, located just outside of Chicago" for his inauguration.

It is unclear where Trump's suit came from, but he is known to get a lot of his suits from Brioni, the Italian luxury house. "I suppose it's somewhat necessary," said Guy, "as he prefers a very strong shouldered silhouette and the classic American style is something softer."

As Trump used his inauguration speech to talk about increasing American industry, it would be fitting to proudly wear an American suit, Guy pointed out.

"American manufacturing is on the decline, especially in clothing. Some of the factories that made clothes for previous inaugurations have since shuttered. It would be nice to see more support for American manufacturing, even if it's only symbolic," he said.

Melania Trump kicked off Inauguration Day with an outfit that has all the hallmarks of her favoured first lady style: sharply cut, with spiked heels and a dramatic flourish via the headgear. It is simultaneously serious and chic.

The designer chosen by the first lady for the inauguration is the subject of fascination – and, again, an opportunity to transmit a message. That Melania Trump chose New York designer Adam Lippes and a coordinating hat by Eric Javits, was a marked shift of gear.

She may have worn the American fashion designer Ralph Lauren to her husband's last inauguration, but much more frequently turns to the big European houses. Plus, unlike Lauren, neither Lippes nor Javits are such household, starry names.

In a statement, Lippes said the look had been hand-stitched in New York "by some of America's finest craftsmen." Fittingly, Lippes recently opened a new boutique in Palm Beach, where the Trump's live at their home, Mar-a-Lago, or the "southern White House".

Very much on-brand is the price tag: Melania Trump is known for her extravagant tastes – many of her outfits while previously First Lady had price tags running well into the thousands – and Lippes' dresses, for example, go from £1,000 up to over £7,500.

It also speaks to her love of hats, which has sometimes got her in trouble – for example her widely criticised colonial-style pith helmet on safari in Kenya.

Hats have long been a staple of First Lady inauguration dressing, from Jackie Kennedy's pillbox hat to the hats worn by Nancy Reagan to each of her husband's inaugurations, the first one in "Reagan red" and the second one blue.

But while some hats feel like an addendum to an outfit, others become the main feature – as Melania Trump's did.

The brim is wide enough and the contrast between the cream ribbon and navy hat big enough that it draws the eyes upwards – even if it obscures the eyes of the wearer.

There was a loadedness to its incongruity. As Rothman points out, "a boater is traditionally a summer hat. It's traditionally worn by, you know, in Venice, right?" Not in a freezing cold DC.

"This was just such a spectacular use of signaling and blending Palm Beach and DC with international global fashion aesthetic, while understanding the traditional and political power that is also necessary for your look to communicate," said Rothman.

Very much on-brand is the price tag:. Many of her outfits previously as first lady had price tags running well into the thousands – and Lippes' dresses, for example, go from $1,200 (£1,000) up to over $9,000 (£7,500).

Former first lady Jill Biden yet again wore a purplish blue from head to toe.

Blue is a very on-brand colour for the entire Biden family and it has come to represent the administration of the last four years.

At her husband's swearing-in ceremony in 2021, Jill wore a blue coat created by designer/founder Alexandra O'Neill for the New York–based luxury womenswear label Markarian. It reportedly quintupled sales for the designer. It was custom made and embroidered with Swarovski crystals, plus had a pandemic-era matching face mask.

Both Bidens have chosen today to dress in clothes again by Ralph Lauren, whose designs and back story are often seen as synonymous with the American dream.

It comes as no surprise: Jill has worn his clothes throughout the last four years and was at his fashion show in the Hamptons last September.

Her husband recently awarded Lauren the Presidential Medal of Freedom - the nation's highest civilian honour - and in the process made him the first fashion designer to receive the distinction.

Lauren suits have been a fitting uniform of choice for the outgoing president. On the White House website as he leaves office, it sums up his presidency: "for all Americans, a country for all Americans, a future for all Americans."

You could argue his Lauren suits are also designed to not leave any Americans out – never straying too far from classic blue and classic lines.

Rothman thinks we are seeing through the choice of Jill Biden's outfit, in a similar way to Hillary Clinton's business-like suit, was "that they are not bidding farewell, right? We can still see them."

First daughter Ivanka Trump matched Melania's serious colour palette with an emerald green skirt suit with a matching hat.

The hourglass silhouette – the cinched in waist and fuller skirt – felt pointed and intentional. It was reminiscent of Dior's glamorous New Look, which ushered in a new era in fashion after World War Two.

The asymmetry of the cut, however, sounded a note of continuation: Ivanka wore a white Oscar de la Renta jacket with an asymmetric handkerchief hem for inauguration day in 2017.

The first daughter's outfit feels like it could be harking back to the work of Adolfo Sardiña, a Cuban-born American fashion designer who started out as an apprentice milliner at Bergdorf Goodman in the late 1940s and went on to be known for his spectacular hats, which were worn by Nancy Reagan to both of her husband's inaugurations.

For Rothman, the look had a very international flavour. "We're seeing a little bit of Princess Kate style," she said.

It speaks to the idea of a Trump dynasty, in a way more akin to royalty than a democracy. "Her look is really a signal that indicates her strong understanding of the political kingdom," said Rothman.

Yet for all of its regality, Rothman also identifies an accessibility. She has clients already texting her asking, 'how can I get that outfit in another color?' And I've already sent a few links."

The lawyer and wife of Vice President-elect JD Vance, Usha Vance's most high profile appearance to date was speaking the 2024 Republican National Convention. For the occasion she chose a cobalt blue off-the-shoulder Badgley Mischka dress, which retails for $495 (£400). According to a spokesperson speaking to industry website WWD, Vance must have bought the garment herself as the brand wasn't consulted.

But there were clear signs of a pivot to more high-fashion choices this weekend in Washington, when the incoming Second Lady wore a custom black velvet gown by Oscar de la Renta for the Vice President's Dinner and a smart white double-breasted coat to the wreath-laying ceremony in Arlington cemetery earlier in the day.

Today, she chose an Oscar de la Renta overcoat with a strikingly fashion-forward detail: a scarf intentionally tucked into her waist-height belt. Is it a sign of a more stylised image to come as Vance takes her place as the second lady?

"I would absolutely label her as one to watch," said Rothman, "because she is the newest member into the spotlight, she is receiving help – and it's working." Plus: "her energy indicates a comfort in it. Like, I was ready for this."

Rothman sees an authenticity too: "It doesn't look like a costume. It looks like she's having fun." She cited an optimism in the choice of pink, where many of the other figures in Trump's universe went for more sombre colours.

The outgoing vice president might have appeared understated next to some of the more high-pomp ensembles on display, but there was a no-nonsense and business - almost - as usual message in her neatly cut suit.

The most striking detail was the zippers, an interestingly modern note on a day that is all about heritage. Buttons, often the bigger the better, in line with the hockey puck-sized ones on Jackie Kennedy's at the swearing in of JFK are more usual.

Rothman thinks that we are about to see Harris, a career politician, experience a freedom to express herself a bit differently now that she is no longer vice-president.

Suits, ties, shoulder pads, pearls; these are the traditional attire of inauguration day. But John Fetterman, the US senator from Pennsylvania since 2023, has never been one to stick to traditional dress codes – he wore a Carhartt hoodie with a picture of a bow-tie printed onto it for the White House Correspondents' Dinner last year.

Still, if tradition didn't mean Fetterman opted for a pair of trousers, you would have thought the weather might – temperatures in Washington today are so low that the ceremony has been moved inside for the first time since 1985. Yet Fetterman showed up coatless, in only a hoodie, and wearing shorts.

It is fitting – Fetterman is all about bucking convention – he was, after all, the first Senate Democrat to meet with Trump since the election.

At Bill Clinton's 1997 inauguration, Hillary Clinton wore a candy floss-pink outfit by Oscar de la Renta. And to her husband's first swearing-in ceremony in 1993 she went for an unusually busy look for a first lady on inauguration day, when block colours tend to be the order of the day: a checked suit by Arkansas designer Connie Fails and a blue velour hat by Darcy Creech.

In 2017 at Trump's first inauguration, she wore a white and cream Lauren pantsuit - the outfit that clearly makes her feel most battle-ready and professional.

Today, in marked contrast to her previous palette, she has gone for a grave navy. On her coat there is a single brooch.

Its details remain unclear but brooches are often the site of sartorial messaging and Clinton knows it. She recently wore a bald eagle brooch – a national symbol – with the US flag on it for the funeral of Jimmy Carter.

The look was by British sustainable designer Stella McCartney, a move that feels like it could be aimed at the incoming administration's climate plans.

Trump has confirmed plans to once again pull the US out of the Paris agreement, which tries to mitigate the worst impacts of the climate crisis.

The "tech bros" have been undergoing some interesting style shifts of late. Most recently in Elon Musk's case, a Belstaff jacket drew the internet's eyes, while Mark Zuckerberg's style makeover has seen him transform from "normcore" grey T-shirts and inconspicuous jeans to luxury labels, his own brand of slogan T-shirts with Greek and Latin phrases such as "Learning through suffering" written on them and million pound watches.

For Rothman, there was "a sleekness" about the way they looked today, "and they also sort of showed up as a squad, sunglasses and suits."

But, she says, "the most significant part of how the tech giants showed up was in their significant others. Mark Zuckerberg's wife Priscilla Chan wore "the classic DC look: a short statement necklace and a buttoned up coat".

Sartorially speaking, she most recently garnered attention for a very different look: a house coat.

The author and fiancée to Jeff Bezos, Lauren Sanchez, by contrast to both the darkly suited tech entrepreneurs surrounding her, as well as to Chan, wore a startling white Alexander McQueen suit with pointed, padded shoulders. Underneath was a lingerie-inspired look that has already drawn some criticism online for a perceived lack of appropriateness on a state occasion.

LIVE: Follow BBC's live coverage

IN PICTURES: Key moments of the inauguration

WATCH: The new president's day so far

EXPLAINED: What Donald Trump could do on day one

GUIDE: What we know about the inauguration

ANALYSIS: Trump team's confidence is sky-high but warning signs abound

FEATURE: From snowy US cities to Mexican border - deportations loom

Follow the twists and turns of Trump's second presidential term with North America correspondent Anthony Zurcher's weekly US Politics Unspun newsletter. Readers in the UK can sign up here. Those outside the UK can sign up here.